Adire the Yoruba's tie and dye textile fabrics are the indigo-dyed cloth made in southwestern Nigeria by Yoruba women, using a variety of resist-dyeing techniques.
ORIGINS AND HISTORICAL DEVELOPMENT
The
practice of Adire has its roots in indigo dyeing, a tradition that dates back
centuries in West Africa. The earliest known example is from the Dogon kingdom
in Mali, where an indigo-dyed cap in the oniko style was found, dating to the
11th century. The early versions of Adire were likely simple tied designs on handspun
and woven cotton cloth.
However,
the beginning of the 20th century marked a turning point for Adire, as European
textile merchants introduced large quantities of shirting material into the
Yoruba towns of Abeokuta and Ibadan. This development fueled a boom in the
production of Adire, transforming it into a major local craft that attracted
buyers from across West Africa. Abeokuta is often recognized as the capital of
Adire making, though other cities like Ibadan and Osogbo also played
significant roles in the craft's development.
The basic
form of Adire became a two-piece shirting material stitched together to create
a wrapper cloth for women. As the craft gained popularity, new resist-dyeing
techniques emerged, leading to more complex and intricate patterns. The oniko
style involves tying raffia around corn kernels or pebbles to create circular
patterns, while alabere uses stitching with raffia before dyeing to create
unique designs. Eleko, another common technique, involves painting cassava
paste onto the fabric, similar to block printing.
DECLINE AND REVIVAL
Despite its
initial popularity, the Adire craft faced significant challenges by the end of
the 1930s. The introduction of synthetic indigo and caustic soda, along with an
influx of less-skilled artisans, led to a decline in quality and a subsequent
collapse in demand. Although some complex designs continued to be produced
until the early 1970s, the craft only partially regained its earlier prominence.
However, a
revival occurred in the 1960s, largely spurred by the interest of US Peace
Corps workers. This revival rekindled interest in Adire, leading to a
resurgence of traditional techniques and new designs. The work of Nigerian
artisans like Nike Davies-Okundaye has further inspired a younger generation of
designers, including Amaka Osakwe (known for her Maki-Oh label) and Duro Olowu.
CONTEMPORARY IMPACT AND SIGNIFICANCE
The
contemporary revival of Adire has garnered international attention, with
political figures and celebrities like Michelle Obama and Lupita Nyong'o
wearing Adire-inspired clothing. This renewed interest in Adire highlights its
cultural significance and the creative ingenuity of Yoruba artisans.
Today's
Adire techniques continue to build on traditional methods while incorporating
new elements. Onikan involves tying raffia to create intricate patterns, while
alabere uses stitching with raffia to create unique designs. Eleko involves
painting cassava paste onto fabric, often with calabash-carved designs or metal
stencils. These techniques produce a wide range of patterns, from the jubilee
pattern to Olokun ("goddess of the sea"), Sunbebe ("lifting up
of the beads"), and Ibadandun ("Ibadan is sweet").
In addition
to traditional indigo resist-dyeing, Nigeria is known for its two-tone indigo
resist designs, achieved through repeat dyeing with cassava root paste.
High-quality cloth can be dyed 25 or more times to achieve a deep blue-black
colour. This method demonstrates the level of skill and dedication required to create
these beautiful textiles.
Overall,
Adire is more than just a fabric; it is a symbol of cultural heritage, artistic
expression, and the resilience of traditional crafts in the face of changing
times. The recent revival of Adire showcases the enduring appeal of this art
form and its potential to inspire new generations of designers and artisans
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